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And a few weeks ago I helped show Finland's best birders around Jeju, with a proper tourbus.  I just kept thinking 'Don't say anything stupid,' and hopefully I succeeded.  It was a bit tense at first, because apparently they each had their own favourite seat on the bus - I blundered on at dawn, a complete unkown non-Finn (unFinn?  Finnless?), and sat in someone's seat.  Nothing icier than a grumpy Finnish stare.  Anyways, they warmed up as the sun came out, and we had some good yuks.  I thought it was neat the way most of them looked like members of a really badass metal band.